Denkars Getaway

Lhakhang Karpo and Nagpo in Haa

Haa valley is home to some of the most spectacular mountains of Bhutan. The landscapes are a treat to the eyes. The highest motorable road in Bhutan meanders through the Chelela pass. It is 3810 meters above sea level. It has become one of the main tourist spots in Haa valley. The district is home to numerous homestays; the visitors are bound to experience the authentic Bhutanese lifestyle in Haa.

The pass offers a spectacular view of snow-capped mountains throughout the year. You can also see Jomolhari and Jichu Drake.

Haa valley has recently opened to tourism, and a handful of homestay and farm-stays are operated by local stakeholders. The homestay involves various activities related to the local lifestyles. Compared to other districts, there are more homestays than hotels in Haa. Depending on your financial capacity, you can avail different types of homestays. 

Besides all the natural resources and cultural activities, the Haa valley has numerous significant religious sites. Among them, Lhakhang Karpo and Lhakhang Nagpo are the two most important temples that one must visit. The temples were built by Tibetan king Songsen Gompo to build 108 monasteries in the region. Kyichu Lhakhang of Paro and Jampa Lhakhang of Bumthang are other two temples constructed during the same time in Bhutan.

According to the legend, two pigeons (one white and the other black) were released. Thus, the temple built at the white pigeon perched was Lhakhang Karpo (White Temple) and other Lhakhang Nagpo (Black Temple). Interestingly, it’s believed that those temples were built by people who appeared out of nowhere. In local dialect, ‘Haa-Toem’ means ‘suddenly,’ and that’s how the district got its name ‘Haa.’

Lhakhang Karpo is located in Uesu Gewog (southern belt of Haa) in between three famous mountains. Today it stands as tall as the fortress in Haa valley. The temple is home to sacred images of Sangye Tshepamey and Ap Chhundu, the main deity of Haa valley.

The temple also serves as a Buddhist school. Every year in the middle of July, an annual festival is held at the courtyard of the Lhakhang. Thousands of local people and tourists gather to witness the mask dance and local performances.

If you drive through the evening, the night view of the temple is stunning with all the lights on.

The temple remains closed during lunch break (12.00-1.00 pm, Bhutan Standard Time).

Lhakhang Nagpo, The Black Temple. Lhakhang Nagpo is located in Dumcho village. It takes 15 minutes by walk and 10 minutes by car from Lhakhang Karpo. Inside the temple, there is also a small lake. Lhakhang Nagpo serves as the seat for the guardian deity, Da Do Chen.

Although the temple’s name means black temple, in reality, the walls are grey in colour. Therefore, before assuming Lhakhang Nagpo to be black in colour, please visit the chapel and see it for yourself.

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